I keep getting scolded. Scold, scold, scold. Here a scold, there a scold, everywhere a scold scold. Stewardesses. Waitresses. Train conductors. Bus drivers. Hotel clerks. Metro security. Priests. Passport checkers. Polizia. Gypsies. Currency exchange tellers. Mothers. Scooter kamikazes. Buskers. Beggars. Butchers. Gelato scoopers. Water taxi captains. Museum shushers. Each scold with a melodic, singable Italian whine.